Jan and I had spent many a
happy summer holiday walking Napoleonic battlefields throughout Europe. This had been partly inspired by reading Don
Featherstone’s book “On Campaign with Wellington and Featherstone”. This excellent book has a chapter on each of
Wellington’s campaigns and battles, and a short summary of Featherstone’s
visits to each of the battlefields.
Having started the two blogs
about our current interests, I thought it would be a good idea to record our
visits to the battlefields. I had kept
a photo album of each of the holidays, together with notes of the battlefields,
so it would be relatively easy to create a blog of each holiday.
Waterloo 1971
This was our first visit to a
Napoleonic battlefield. We were serving
in Germany at the time, and Waterloo was only four hours drive. We had been wargaming (and married) or two
years, and had just seen the iconic film Waterloo. I had done months research and we had a
great holiday. This was a good one to start with, because it was also
the easiest battlefield to explore.
Spain and Portugal 1991
Twenty years later I read Don
Featherstone’s book and was determined to follow in his footsteps to the
Peninsula. But I was not confident
enough to do it on my own. So we booked
the holiday with Holts Tours. An
expensive way to do it, but well worth every penny. We drove from Lisbon to Madrid by coach and
visited many battlefields on the way.
Spain and Portugal 1994
The Holts Tour gave me the
confidence to plan a self-drive holiday.
This was before the days of easy internet access and booking
online. We had to book accommodation
through a travel agent and were restricted to 4 star hotels and Parador’s. Again expensive, but a great experience. We flew to Lisbon, collected a hire car and
drove north to Busacco, east to Salamanca and back to Oporto to fly home. The holiday was “interesting”, as we spoke
not a word of Spanish or Portuguese. And
we were far from southern Portugal favoured by the UK tourists. But it did give us a lot of confidence to
carry on with the project.
Northern Spain 1995
We took our own car to
Santander to drive north to explore Burgos, Vitoria and the Pyrenees. Again we had to use expensive Parador’s
which seemed a waste, because we only slept in them. The Pyrenees proved much more difficult
than expected. For me at least it proved
impossible to work with historical and modern maps. In particular we spent a very frustrating
day trying to follow the progress of the battle of Roncevallies.
The Pyrenees 1996
Better prepared we returned to
carry on our explorations of the Pyrenees.
This time we drove through France to the border village of Sare. We had a great holiday and spent many happy
hours walking through the Pyrenees. But
on the way back we had a traffic accident with a coach, which could have ended
in disaster. It happened on the last day
as we drove to the ferry. Within an hour
of leaving our Gite we had written off the car, but fortunately we were both
ok.
Austerlitz 1998
We booked a coach tour with
Midas Tours for this holiday. A more
budget holiday than Holts Tours, but a much more like minded set of fellow
travellers. Unfortunately we had
terrible weather. We had personal
experience of how difficult it is to move through the sticky mud of
Austerlitz. We felt very guilty
arriving at our hotel in Brunn each evening covered in mud and dripping all
over the carpets
Germany 1999
We booked again with Midas
Tours for this tour of eastern Germany.
Fantastic list of battlefields from Jena to Bautzen to Leipzig. Unfortunately the lack of knowledge and
preparation by the tour guide was very obvious, and reduced our enjoyment of
the holiday. We had to wait hours at
Prague airport whilst he drove to Berlin to collect two tourists. Then we were left to our own devices half
way through the tour whilst he did a recce of Bautzen. Despite this it was interesting to see the
battlefields, but it would be the last time we relied on someone else to prepare
a visit. It guess it is true that you
get what you pay for.
Italy 2000
This one was inspired by a
book called Castiglione 1796 written by Bernhard Voykowitsch. We met him at a book exhibition in London
where he was selling them. He told us
that it was the first of a series he had planned to cover all of
Bonaparte/Napoleon’s campaigns. He had funded the whole thing himself, and was
hoping that he could make enough profit to continue with the series. I never
heard of any further publications. It’s
a shame because though a relatively cheap paper back it had excellent
illustrations and covered the campaign extremely well. There was also a short chapter about visiting
the battlefields. We booked a caravan
on the edge of Lake Garda and spent a fantastic two weeks exploring the area.
Aspern/Austerlitz 2002
When we were at Austerlitz in
1988 we visited The Posthouse, where Napoleon had his headquarters the night
before the battle. It is now a protected
historical building, but has a very modern motel attached. Because the weather had made the earlier
visit such a problem, we were keen to return.
Again we would arrange the whole thing ourselves, and would start with
Aspern/Essling. We flew to Vienna,
collected our hire car and drove to a hotel within sight of the church at
Aspern. We had arranged to hire cycles
for this first part of the holiday and found them very suitable to explore the
large, flat expanse of the Marchland. A
great holiday, and a fitting end to our project.
Walking Napoleonic Battlefields
I started “Walking Waterloo”
in May 2009, and finished “Walking Italy” in February 2011. Each Blog followed the standard layout of
one blog for each holiday, and an index of each battlefield visited. We covered 98 battlefields in those nine
blogs, though some were visited and covered twice.
I wanted to make them to be as
easy to find as possible, so I decided to do a final blog. “Walking Napoleonic Battlefields” would be
an index to the whole series of blogs.
There would be a short description of each blog, and a link to each one. I completed this final blog in May
2011. Two years after I started
“Walking Waterloo”.
It is difficult to determine
how many visits all of the blogs have had, because there is a counter for each
one. I had never totalled them all
before, but I did so for this post. The
overall total visits is 210427. By far
the most visits have been to the summary which has had 77313.
I am really pleased to feel
that this project has been read by so many, and I hope that it may have
encouraged them to try it themselves.
For any wargamer there can be no greater thrill than walking the actual
ground his model soldiers fight over. And
it is a huge learning experience to do so.
But even more than pleasure at
the number of visitors is the knowledge that all of the blogs are still visited
regularly.
If you would like to find out
more you will find a link to “Walking Napoleonic Battlefields” on the right,
under My Blog List.